Happy Birthday KEN!!!
On Saturday, we decided to take a day to explore the cava area. Cava is the sparkling wine of the region, made the same way that they make champagne. It used to be called champagne until the French trademarked the term and required that it come from that region in France. We headed west on the train and after a short ride, we landed right at the front of the first place we had a tour reservation, Freixenet. We were early so we went to town for breakfast.
We walked a very short distance to the little town, over a bridge with lovely views of the vines and found a very modern and new place that was open and serving. Bacon and eggs, omelets on bread, and hot chocolate that was thick and sweet were what we decided on and they were good. We were all glad to have found something to eat because we were not sure we would have made it through the morning without.
After the quick breakfast, we headed back to Freixenet for our tour. Some of the first things you see when you get here are the funny collection of 'cars.' Scooters in the shape of bottles, a car that is a bottle, and a car that is a cork. They did have a tour in English so we were able to learn about the entire process. The tour guide was a German woman and only knew the tour in English. When other folks asked her questions, it took a bit of explaining before she understood. For the tour, we walked through and listened to her explanation as she showed us large, fancy signs on the wall. She had a remote that turned the light on at each sign as we walked through. Then we walked down into the cellar. I have no idea how many levels total there was but it seemed to go on forever. It smelled old and there is a special fungus that keeps the moisture very low. It is a good fungus the tour guide said. I had to touch it, it was really squishy. After a short ride on a train through the old cellar, the tour was over.
After the tour, they take you to a tasting room and offer you a sample of their Cordon Negro. The translation has to do with the color of the bottle and the formation of a 'rope' in the bubbles. You have to use your imagination and stare at the bubbles with your eyes sort of crossed to see the rope but it is there.
After the tasting room, we headed through the store and out to find a taxi to our next stop, Codorníu. The grounds here are just amazing. There is a garden, a old house, and rooms that you can rent. The tour guide here also spoke English and she actually understood it. Angels was her name and she was a great guide. Very funny and energetic. She first showed us the museum and explained a bit about the history of Codorníu as we looked at ancient presses. Then we headed down to the cellar.
Our guide again explained the process. How I understand it, first you grow the grapes, then you pick the grapes, then you extract the must and bottle that. The first fermentation gives you the base. They then add sugar and yeast and it ferments a second time. As the yeast eats the sugar the bubbles are formed. Once the yeast has used the sugar, it dies and falls as sediment. They start the bottle out in a horizontal position. They turn and lift the bottle over the required amount of 'shelf' time. For cava, they must ferment at least 9 months but cannot go more than 4 years. Each company has a different amount of time, longer sometimes means a higher end product.
Once they bottle has been turned and lifted into a vertical position, the yeast has now fallen into the neck of the bottle and the cava is clear and ready for the last bit of processing. They will dip the neck of the bottles into freezing liquid and then the temporary lid and yeast literally explodes out of the bottle. They add a bit more cava to bring it back to full and then depending on the variety, they add white wine and sugar to make the different varieties. It is quite an interesting and simple process.
Here we also got to ride on a small train. This time our guide drove it. It was fun to zip through the old cellar and look at the dusty bottles that have now turned to vinegar. They are there mainly so the tourists can see the old method of production. It is much more modern now, no more hand turning, it is all done by machine. At one point we were waiting as there was a train in front of us, our guide heard the clanking of bottles and laughed and said 'do not touch the bottles.' As she said that, I turned and all I could see were arms reaching for the bottles. People, they never surprise me.
Here too, we ended the tour at the tasting room. We were offered two samples, a rose and a brut. This tasting room was down below and dark, the Freixenet room was upstairs and very sunny. We all agreed that the tour and guide for Codorníu was better but the tasting room at Freixenet was better.
We headed out through the shop here too and went in search of food in the little town again. It turns out, we happened to be in town for the last day of Cavatast 2009. It seems that the region has quiet a few Caves and here you can sample more of them. It is a cute little festival. You buy drink, food, and dessert tickets and then go sample what you want. The food was pretty good and it was fun to see everyone just milling around.
We headed back to Barcelona on the short train ride and headed to K&L's market to get dinner fixings for home. We decided to eat in and fix a giant salad and just eat olives, bread, pita, cheese, hummus, and baba ganoush. The local market has vendors and we were able to get all the stuff and great prices. The salad fixings were less than 7 euro combined, lettuce, peppers, cucumbers, carrots, tomatoes... even the figs we got to eat with goat cheese and balsamic vinegar (warmed in the oven) were less than 1 euro. All of it was very fresh and so good!
Pictures from the day are here.
On Saturday, we decided to take a day to explore the cava area. Cava is the sparkling wine of the region, made the same way that they make champagne. It used to be called champagne until the French trademarked the term and required that it come from that region in France. We headed west on the train and after a short ride, we landed right at the front of the first place we had a tour reservation, Freixenet. We were early so we went to town for breakfast.
We walked a very short distance to the little town, over a bridge with lovely views of the vines and found a very modern and new place that was open and serving. Bacon and eggs, omelets on bread, and hot chocolate that was thick and sweet were what we decided on and they were good. We were all glad to have found something to eat because we were not sure we would have made it through the morning without.
Our guide again explained the process. How I understand it, first you grow the grapes, then you pick the grapes, then you extract the must and bottle that. The first fermentation gives you the base. They then add sugar and yeast and it ferments a second time. As the yeast eats the sugar the bubbles are formed. Once the yeast has used the sugar, it dies and falls as sediment. They start the bottle out in a horizontal position. They turn and lift the bottle over the required amount of 'shelf' time. For cava, they must ferment at least 9 months but cannot go more than 4 years. Each company has a different amount of time, longer sometimes means a higher end product.
Here too, we ended the tour at the tasting room. We were offered two samples, a rose and a brut. This tasting room was down below and dark, the Freixenet room was upstairs and very sunny. We all agreed that the tour and guide for Codorníu was better but the tasting room at Freixenet was better.
We headed back to Barcelona on the short train ride and headed to K&L's market to get dinner fixings for home. We decided to eat in and fix a giant salad and just eat olives, bread, pita, cheese, hummus, and baba ganoush. The local market has vendors and we were able to get all the stuff and great prices. The salad fixings were less than 7 euro combined, lettuce, peppers, cucumbers, carrots, tomatoes... even the figs we got to eat with goat cheese and balsamic vinegar (warmed in the oven) were less than 1 euro. All of it was very fresh and so good!
Pictures from the day are here.
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