We started the day bright and early and found ourselves nearly alone at the Temple of Olympian Zeus, an age old temple, the largest of ancient Greece. It now consists of only 15 of the original 104 columns in a huge empty field. There is even one column toppled in pieces on the ground so it is easy to imagine how the other columns were carted off and used in other construction projects. 
Next we walked by the Zappeion, a grand mansion just below the National Garden on our way to Syntagma Square. The National Garden is Athens' Central Park with a variety of different kinds of areas including a strange set of animal enclosures with birds, goats, ducks, and others. The ducks have no water, there are bunnies with goats, and of course, cats all around. There is even a big enclosure of colorful birds a flitting around and chirping. The paths are wide and the place was pretty quiet. It was a nice break from the honking traffic. 
At Syntagma Square, we watched the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. This simple ceremony was fun to watch as the Evzones Guards exaggerated movements and interesting costumes amused everyone there. The tassels on the legs, the poofs on the shoes, and the skirts made to look like the skirts with 400 pleats, a pleat for every year of Ottoman occupation.
From here we followed Rick Steves' city walk down Ermou Street where we picked up koulouri, a tasty pretzel like sesame seed item and some coconut candy and fresh slices of coconut. The coconut candy was terrific, both the vanilla log and chocolate log. The fresh coconut was interesting, the guy told us to eat the flesh and the skin so we did just that. He had juice too but we didn't partake.
Next along the walk are three Byzantine churches, the Church of Kapnikarea, the main Cathedral, and the Church of Agia Filotheis. These churches are are very small compared to the massive Catholic Cathedrals we are used to finding in Europe. Still, they are elegant and humble. On our way to lunch, we walked by a series of stores that sell various religious objects and other places that make robes for priests. Some of the robes and hats are very elaborate. It reminded of us similar stores in Rome for Catholics.
For lunch, we headed back to Soulvaki Row to pick up more soulvaki, tsatziki, and fries. Then we headed to Kerameikos Cemetery, another archaeological site covered by the Acropolis ticket. The cemetery had a museum with excellent air conditioning, a welcome amenity after walking in the sun for so long. Inside the cemetery are a variety of monuments and sculptures that were buried for many years. Strangely, this area is full of tortoises and we saw at least 13 of them. Some of them were just crawling along the ruins. It was very funny. It doesn't fit at all!
On the way back from the cemetery, we walked through the Roman Forum, much smaller than the Ancient Agora. The best structure here is the Tower of the Winds. The tower has eight relief depicting the eight winds said to have brought the weather. The tower was also used to tell time using bronze rods that acted as a sundial. When the sun wasn't shining, people told time using the tower's complex water powered clock. No tortoises here, but plenty of cats and kittens. Athens has many many stray/resident dogs and cats. They all seem to get along for the most part and seem to wander as they please. You can find the cats almost anywhere, including up at the Parthenon.
Next, we walked through the neighborhood known as Anafiotika, an island of a neighborhood nestled up against the Acropolis. The small houses here are build like in the Cyclades with the tiny walkways and whitewashed houses. It's quite an experience to walk through. Again, cats everywhere. It was very peaceful and we only ran into 2 other people at the end of the walk. It is hard to imagine living in such a small space, especially since we are taller than some of the doors.
By the time we were ready for dinner it was beginning to rain and we were pretty exhausted, so we took the elevator up to the rooftop garden restaurant of the hotel, the peacock restaurant. Here, there's a nice view of the Acropolis and Parthenon, but the food and service were very slow. The food wasn't memorable either. We would recommend that you stop in for a drink and a look at the view but find food elsewhere.
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