Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Athens - Day 3


We started the day bright and early and found ourselves nearly alone at the Temple of Olympian Zeus, an age old temple, the largest of ancient Greece.  It now consists of only 15 of the original 104 columns in a huge empty field. There is even one column toppled in pieces on the ground so it is easy to imagine how the other columns were carted off and used in other construction projects. 

Next we walked by the Zappeion, a grand mansion just below the National Garden on our way to Syntagma Square.  The National Garden is Athens' Central Park with a variety of different kinds of areas including a strange set of animal enclosures with birds, goats, ducks, and others. The ducks have no water, there are bunnies with goats, and of course, cats all around. There is even a big enclosure of colorful birds a flitting around and chirping. The paths are wide and the place was pretty quiet. It was a nice break from the honking traffic. 

At Syntagma Square, we watched the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.  This simple ceremony was fun to watch as the Evzones Guards exaggerated movements and interesting costumes amused everyone there. The tassels on the legs, the poofs on the shoes, and the skirts made to look like the skirts with 400 pleats, a pleat for every year of Ottoman occupation.

From here we followed Rick Steves' city walk down Ermou Street where we picked up koulouri, a tasty pretzel like sesame seed item and some coconut candy and fresh slices of coconut. The coconut candy was terrific, both the vanilla log and chocolate log. The fresh coconut was interesting, the guy told us to eat the flesh and the skin so we did just that. He had juice too but we didn't partake. 



Next along the walk are three Byzantine churches, the Church of Kapnikarea, the main Cathedral, and the Church of Agia Filotheis.  These churches are are very small compared to the massive Catholic Cathedrals we are used to finding in Europe.  Still, they are elegant and humble.  On our way to lunch, we walked by a series of stores that sell various religious objects and other places that make robes for priests.  Some of the robes and hats are very elaborate. It reminded of us similar stores in Rome for Catholics.

For lunch, we headed back to Soulvaki Row to pick up more soulvaki, tsatziki, and fries.  Then we headed to Kerameikos Cemetery, another archaeological site covered by the Acropolis ticket.  The cemetery had a museum with excellent air conditioning, a welcome amenity after walking in the sun for so long.  Inside the cemetery are a variety of monuments and sculptures that were buried for many years.  Strangely, this area is full of tortoises and we saw at least 13 of them. Some of them were just crawling along the ruins. It was very funny. It doesn't fit at all!

On the way back from the cemetery, we walked through the Roman Forum, much smaller than the Ancient Agora.  The best structure here is the Tower of the Winds.  The tower has eight relief depicting the eight winds said to have brought the weather.  The tower was also used to tell time using bronze rods that acted as a sundial.  When the sun wasn't shining, people told time using the tower's complex water powered clock. No tortoises here, but plenty of cats and kittens.  Athens has many many stray/resident dogs and cats.  They all seem to get along for the most part and seem to wander as they please.  You can find the cats almost anywhere, including up at the Parthenon.



Next, we walked through the neighborhood known as Anafiotika, an island of a neighborhood nestled up against the Acropolis.  The small houses here are build like in the Cyclades with the tiny walkways and whitewashed houses.  It's quite an experience to walk through. Again, cats everywhere. It was very peaceful and we only ran into 2 other people at the end of the walk. It is hard to imagine living in such a small space, especially since we are taller than some of the doors.

By the time we were ready for dinner it was beginning to rain and we were pretty exhausted, so we took the elevator up to the rooftop garden restaurant of the hotel, the peacock restaurant.  Here, there's a nice view of the Acropolis and Parthenon, but the food and service were very slow. The food wasn't memorable either. We would recommend that you stop in for a drink and a look at the view but find food elsewhere.


Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Day 2 picture favorites

Here are pictures! We are working on day 3 picture favorites and the post from day 4. We will be flying to Rhodes today so cross your fingers that there are no strikes.


Athens - Day 2

 Our second day in Athens started early. We woke up at about 5 am and had to wait for breakfast until 7:00. Breakfast is included with our stay here at the Hotel Hera. It isn't bad either! There is a juice (not sure what kind), corn flakes, toast and jam, yogurt with fresh fruit and granola, bacon, sausages, sliced meats cheeses, eggs, and cake. Yep, cake. A spiced one and a chocolate marbled one, complete with chocolate frosting. I bet you think I ate that for breakfast but I didn't. At least not on day 2. :)


After we filled up on breakfast, we headed out to the Acropolis. It is just up the street from our hotel. Up just happens to be really up. It is quite a hike. There was absolutely no one at the ticket counter. We got there right as they opened and walked right in. The ticket we purchased also gets us into a bunch of other sites so it is a great deal for 12 Euro/each.

We came into the site just below the Theater of Dionysis. It is reconizable as a theater but there are piles of other unrecognizable things. Next, we passed the Theater of Herodes Atticus. This has a very cool structure and the floor is stunning. You can look out and the view of Athens is amazing.

A bustling city amongst all this history.

After more climbing we find the crowds. We didn't go in the main entrance so we missed all the tours. But up at the top, you are all together. The steps up are so slick and there are so many people that it seems a bit precarious walking around. There is currently work being done so there is scaffolding and machines all around but then you see the Parthenon. It is massive, remarkable, incredible, awe inspiring.

EPIC.

The Parthenon is so distracting that you almost miss the ionic Temple of Athena Nike. This temple celebrated the Athenian victory over the Persians. It is nearly square with lovely columns. This was Alan's favorite building. It is up in the corner and surrounded by marble stairs. Once you walk past the Temple of Athena, you walk a board walkway to the main area. We circled the Parthenon. You then pass a small building that was once the museum. Later in the post we have the report of the new museum.

After circling the Parthenon, we walked to the Erechtheion and the Porch of the Caryatids. It seems that the work being done is slow going so most of what is there is very basic structure and incomplete. It is none the less impressive. There is an olive tree planted by the Porch of the Caryatids that is supposedly a replacement the the tree planted as a gift from Athena to Athens. The Caryatids are the statues of women on the porch area. The ones currently there are replicas, the originals are in the New Acropolis Museum.

After we were able to get through the crowd, we decended through the main entrace to head to Mars Hill. As we left, we noticed some workmen working on a gap in the wall. I swear the conversation went something like 'that piece of marble is not going to fit in that hole...' and the other guy saying and gesturing 'yes that piece will fit in that hole...' all the while he is jiggling a board under the piece of marble and trying to get leverage. The workmen/women all look like normal people. They aren't wearing vests, gloves, uniforms... you cannot pick them out of a crowd. It is weird.

Next was Mars Hill. A short hike up a hill, about 10 steps but they are a doosy. Slick rocks, narrow, and steep. But the view is totally worth it. There are dogs, unowned, just laying around. Can you imagine that view? Every day? There are cats everywhere too. They walk right into shops and no one even notices them.

From Mars Hill, you can walk right down to an entrance to the Ancient Agora. Here you can walk through a partial replica of the Stoa of Attalos (meaning they used some original pieces). It now houses a museum but once was a market place. It is cool to walk along the columns and try to imagine what it was like as an ancient market. There is also the Temple of Hephaistos (the blacksmith god). It is not finished but it is the best preservered and classic example of temple architecture. It is about half the size of the Parthenon.

We then walked to the Library of Hadrian. Only 4 columns stand of what was once a cultural center. It is interesting to think about it but sad that it and what it contained are gone. After the library, we wanted to hit Soulvaki Row for cheap eats. And cheap, tasty eats we did find! We walked up to the counter at Taverna Thanasis. A small bucket of tzatziki, Greek fries, and a double souvlaki was a perfect meal for 7 Euro. And the fries were some of the best I've ever had, seriously. On par with Potato Champion, Portland.

After our tummies were happy, we walked some more. Back to Central Market in search of more figs, almonds, the fish market, and the fruits and vegetables that we missed on day 1. We found it all and smelled it all too! The fish market is the craziest I've seen (Los Ramblos in Barcelona doesn't compare to the mess, sound, and smell of this one). The meat lanes were in full swing again and we found the fig/almond guy. He kindly pointed out the fruits and vegetables after we stocked up on almonds and figs.

Another short walk and we were back at the hotel. Our feet were sore so we took a break and a tiny nap. Actually, I napped and Alan did laundry. Then we headed out to the New Acropolis Museum before dinner. The New Acropolis Museum is really new and holds pieces from the Acropolis. It was very quiet, not to many people. They do not allow any pictures inside, of anything, so it made the jaunt through pretty smooth and quick. We were able to see the original Caryatids that apparently as recently as 1950 had sharp noses and mouths. People say that the acid rain/pollution of Athens has reduced them to noseless and smooth in about 50 years (they were moved inside in 1998).

For dinner we found a place online that had good review so we tried to find it. It took us a while but finally we did. The place was called Taverna Thespis. It has several tiered areas for outside seating all with a bit of a view of the Acropolis. When we got there it was early so we were able to pick where to sit and we were really treated well. They gave us ouzo on the house, the salad was fantastic even though it had too many tomatoes. I ordered the special, God Fish with Garlic Sauce and Alan ordered the Lamb Souvlaki (but it was just grilled not skewered). We also ordered tzatziki, it was ok but not something we would order again. The fish was great and the garlic sauce was just a pile of garlic! The lamb, when you ate the meat, was tasty but it was on the bone and a bit fatty/gristly. After dinner, they brought us dessert of fresh melon and grapes, again on the house. We will definitely go back here!

A short night stroll down a street called Restaurant Steps provides visual entertainment before we head back to the hotel for some much needed sleep.

Day 1 picture favorites

Howdy! Things are going well. We are still adjusting but so far we are blown away with the history and beauty!

Next post soon. :)

Monday, October 4, 2010

Athens - Day 1

We arrived in Athens a full hour early thanks to a very generous jet stream tailwind of 160mph most of the way.  The flight info panel reported speeds of 678mph!


However, that meant that our room in Athens (and a welcome shower) were an hour later than our arrival, so we dropped our bags off and started wandering through the streets near the Acropolis.  In Athens, as in Rome, there are ruins scattered around the town and you never know when you'll come across a set of ancient columns or some other protected excavation site. After checking out the ruins and taking a peek at a few Byzantine churches, we headed back to the hotel, stopping for some lunch along the way (Greek salad and cheese pie).
Once settled in our room and adequately refreshed, we headed in the afternoon to see what we could take in before the day ran out.  Many museums in Athens are closed on Mondays and some on Tuesdays, so we tried to arrange things strategically, but found that the Tuesday-closed sites closed pretty early on Monday and we weren't able to make it to them (we'll have to wait for Wed/Thu).  So we headed out to the Central Market which was whittling down and the only people left were the meat vendors who were either chopping violently away at big chunks of meat or enticing us to their wares.  On the outside of the market, there were several nut and fig sellers that we'd read about in the guidebooks.  We picked up some roasted almonds and dried white figs and snacked on them throughout the rest of the day.

From the markets, we went to the National Archaeological Museum which was open until 8pm, giving us 3-4 hours to see everything.  The National Archaeological Museum contains a huge array of historical artifacts from bronze statues, the golden mask of Agamemnon, various Egyptian pieces, and frescoes recovered from Santorini (pre-volcano).

After the museum, we headed back to the hotel, but stopped for dinner at the guidebook recommended,God's Restaurant, which was decent, but nothing spectacular.  We had zucchini bites, tzaziki, and moussakka.

Friday, October 1, 2010

Olives, oregano, and ocean! Oh my!

photo courtesy of holidays uncovered
Finally, the honeymoon is here! We leave in a couple of days and our destination is Greece. I cannot believe how long it has been since the wedding! We recently got our international drivers license too so we can rent a car while we are there. We went to AAA to get them. We told him we were going to Greece and wondered if they had any maps. He said he would look. We told him we were looking for a map of Rhodes. He said " all of our maps have roads." Ha!

We are promised internet connections while traveling so this blog will be hopping! Stay tuned for pictures and updates.

Anyway, this is just a brief write up of potential things we will be doing. For the first few days we will be enjoying the sites of Athens.

Acropolis
Ancient Agora
National Archaeological Museum
New Acropolis Museum
The Plaka (Anafiotika)
Temple of Olympian Zeus
Benaki Museum of Greek History and Culture
Museum of Cycladic Art
Syntagma Square
and the Zoo (thanks Lisa, Nick, and Jen)

Then we fly to Rhodes (thanks to Aarthi and Aroon) to meet up with none other than K&L!!! Alan and I would never have met had it not been for K&L. They will be joining us from their Spanish digs for a couple of fun filled days adventuring on the island of Rhodes.

Street of Knights
Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights
Kalithea Thermi
Lindos (carving of a trireme (three banked ship), Acropolis, Byzantiane Church of the Panagia)
Lady of the Castle Cathedral (Panagia tou Kastrou)
Wineries (still researching, one is Winefactory Estate of Anastasia Triantafillou)
Ancient Kameiros
A guided walk through Old Town (National Geographic)
Archaeological Museum
Rhodes Ostrich Farm and Park (not sure on this one... reviews are only so so)
Possibly some castles and of course beaches!

From their we say good-bye to our friends and venture to our last destination (flying thanks to Brian & Shirley). We will spend a few days wandering around the romantic and stunningly beautiful island of Santorini.

Ancient Thera
Kamares beach
Museum of Prehistoric Thira
Oia (Navel Museum, Epistopi)
A crater-edge hike from Fira to Opia (6 miles)
A sunset dinner cruise (thanks Mollie!)
Hot springs and volcanoes
Snorkeling

Fried fishies and octopus (thanks Forresters!), fried tomato balls (Matt and Karen), and desserts (yummily provided by Chris, Penny, Kirbie and EB)

Ken and Paula, thank you for the tickets. A GIANT thank you to all of our families and friends for your support and such generous honeymoon registry gifts.  Our trip is so much more exciting now and we will never be able to thank you enough.

Drive on

We are back after a long hiatus. We have had some interesting travels... Down the aisle for one! We also moved from Oregon to Utah. It has been really nice because now I am closer to my family and can visit them more often. We went to Montana, Wyoming, and through Yellowstone. Then we went back to Montana.

It is so hard to write about something that happened so fast. Summer is gone, fall is here.

ETA:

My nephew, Boyd, is hilarious. I just wanted to write down some of the funny things he said when we visited them in Wyoming.

EB: Did you flush the toilet Boyd?
Boyd: Almost! I bet I will! (as he is running away)

Alan: Boyd, do you want a hamburger or a hot dog?
Boyd: I don't want any of that, I just want chocolate!!

He is also fascinated with flashlights.

Slideshow anyone?